Monday, September 29, 2008

Sunday 9/28 7:18 pm—I’ve never needed a shower so desperately: deet+ sweat+ sunscreen=shower time

This weekend was QUITE an adventure. Let me start by saying I really stepped out of my comfort zone this weekend—which I was very proud of—but I learned why it is I have that comfort zone in the first place. There were many lessons learned and amazing memories made; but after the longest weekend of my life, I am surprisingly so grateful to be back to my couch at home in Rabat. (forgive me if this post seems not to flow or if it’s hard to follow… so much happened this weekend that it would take 10 pages to explain everything in full detail)
As it begins…on Friday, everyone in the program went on a small day excursion to Casablanca. Since that was only on Friday, most people chose to stay in Casa (that’s what we Moroccans call it for short) for the whole weekend. But I learned from last weekend in Tangier that traveling in large groups is not good and it stresses me out so I ended up tagging along with a few other girls who made the trek to the Cascades D’Ouzoud which are the best, most beautiful waterfalls in all of Morocco—probably in “all of North Africa” at that haha. But anyway, our day in Casablanca was… interesting I suppose. This city is one of the largest in the country with about 3 million in population. It’s also on the coast so it’s a port city and I pretty genuinely did not like it—and I am almost always a fan of the hustle and bustle of big cities. So the assignment for the day was split about 6 ways. Each of the 6 groups was assigned a spot to check out. I was in the mosque group which was great because we got a tour of one of the only mosques in the country that is ever open to non-Muslims (normally if you are not a devout Muslim you are never allowed inside a mosque which is a shame because it was absolutely beautiful!) Anyway, we had to take the 7 am train to get there in time for the 9 o’clock tour which was very very early considering it takes 20 minutes to walk there, etc. But whatever that really wasn’t too bad. The tour of the mosque was pretty spectacular. It was by far the most touristy thing I’ve done since I’ve been here, but overall it was worth it. The Hassan II mosque was built in the early 1990s by the then king and it fits up to 25,000 people to pray at once. The ceiling even opens up and it’s just a massive open space covered in carpets and there are like 35 Italian imported chandeliers throughout the entire thing. The intricacy and detail of every inch on every ceiling and wall was amazing. The pictures I took were just frustrating because it was impossible to capture the amazing vastness and beauty of this place. But like I said, it was such a tourist attraction I kind of felt like I was in Disneyland or something—like it somehow wasn’t real. We were in the “English speaking” tour group which consisted of about 75 people, all of which were either our group of 15 students or all retired senior citizens from the Netherlands or Florida. Hahaha they were so obnoxious and demanding. It was kind of nice to see them and then get to leave them and not have to return to that for a few more months at least!
We spent the rest of the day being lost and getting ripped off in Casablanca—neither of which I enjoyed. (One example of getting ripped off was the 30 Durham cab ride that took us two blocks compared to the 100 Durham cab ride that we were in for an hour and a half getting to the waterfalls the next day) End of that story was pretty much that Casablanca was dirty and unfriendly. Granted, I hardly saw a fraction of the city and I will go back again I’m sure, but for now ew.
So I went on the rest of my adventure with 3 girls who I didn’t really know that well but were really great and I had a very good time with them. I did learn that traveling in smaller packs is well worth it. We took a 4 pm train out of Casablanca and got to Beni Milal around 8:30. We stayed overnight in that city because we had to take a taxi to get to the small village to see the waterfalls and it was just better to wait until morning. So that was pretty uneventful but fun. We had dinner that night and breakfast the next day at the café underneath the hotel and the hotel manager was very nice and helpful.
So beings Saturday which will eventually become THE LONGEST DAY OF MY LIFEEEEE. Christie read in her guide book about this village close by that has a big flee market type thing every Saturday and we thought it would be really cool to stop by and check it out. Maybe there would be lots of cool things and fun cheap little tents with cool stuff. Well, that wishful thinking led us to a local bus that was supposed to leave at 9:30 but didn’t leave until 10:40, but did eventually get us to the “market.” Then begins me wanting to fall to the ground and just weep with tears I was so frustrated and uncomfortable. I don’t even know how to begin describing this place besides saying it was soooo crowded there were times I couldn’t move an inch. Normally this isn’t really a big deal but we had our big backpacks and we so obviously weren’t locals so we were that much more vulnerable and targeted. I’m used to being stared at a little in Rabat because I’m obviously not Morocco considering I wear t-shirts and you can see my hair; but, I’ve never been a spectacle the way I was in this city (which I couldn’t even tell you the name of). We planned ahead and new that we would probably be obvious targets for beggars and pick-pocketers so everything of importance was in my purse in front of me or buried deep into the bottom of my back pack so if someone did try to undo the nearest zipper on my back the best they’d find was a sweater or a towel. BUT that didn’t really matter when we were crammed in like freaking sardines! Everyone was instantly gawking at us and following us because I’m sure this tiny little town hardly ever sees tourists… why would they? We thought we were being cool and cultural going to see a place that most Westerns don’t get to see… well yeah freakin’ right I’m sticking to my guide book for ever and always. I’m just so sickened by thinking back on that! SO may carts and chickens and produce and smelly people!!!! Even a local came up to us and was like be careful and look out because they will definitely try to rob you. GREAT! I’ll just say I’ve never felt that uncomfortable and truly in danger before and as I’m sure you can guess I hated it.
So by this time it’s probably 1 pm and I finally put my foot down and as I was on the verge of tears I just demanded that we get a taxi and get to the cascades. I would have been willing to pay them hundreds of dollars to leave. But everyone else was on the same page at least so we managed to escape that absurdity without anyone being trampled or robbed so that’s one good thing? I mean I just wish I could somehow really describe this place! I easily could have been pushed down and everything taken from me and I’m sure no one would have blinked an eye! They were too busy buying live chickens and damn dates! Ughhhh I’m just so bitter.
So after lots more drama of finding a taxi we finally found one who would take us the hour and a half up the mountains to the cascades. He charged us 100 Durhams each—400 total which is like 53 dollars. Not bad at all. We finally get to this little village and instantly someone tries to “help” us find our way but we’re too bitter to trust him—turns out he was just being nice and did help us…woops. We found the hotel we wanted and stayed on the terrace for 35 Durham a night (4 dollars). There were some beat up mattresses and big stinky wool blankets. We ended up setting up our beds under a big wool covering/tent thing and it actually worked out. I mean I didn’t really know this was our plan so I didn’t bring a sheet or lots of warm clothes, but luckily another girl let me share a sheet with her and she let me borrow her wool socks. I’m such a wimp in cold weather and it got veeeerrry cold at night—but I survived.
Anyway, once we got settled into the hotel we wondered down to the falls and they were spectacular. Sooo beautiful and very worth it! I was so glad we finally made it. That afternoon was great; we spent a few hours hiking up and down the waterfalls taking picture at every angle. It was really nice and relaxing… After a little resting period we wondered down to find a little restaurant where we all got small salads, some lamb and some couscous with veggies, orange juices and hot tea all for a total of 80 Durham (10 bucks!!) The guys working there were all nomads from all over and at night they slept on the couches we sat on to eat and they were very friendly, without being pushy which is not always the case. I was having such a good time! We were even about to hang out with them and have dessert but then I got violently ill….of course!! It was so random and it just snuck up on me so quickly! No need for the gross details but I was in bed at 8:30 and I couldn’t even move I felt so sick! I was paralyzed to these aches in my stomach and throughout my entire torso. My joy turned right back to misery and to top it off I was sleeping outside on a gross mattress and I was freezing cold. L It doesn’t even make sense!! I didn’t eat anything that they didn’t and I was the only one stuck in my bed all night… it was awful. BUT I very thankfully woke up the next day perfectly fine. We had a 2 hour taxi ride followed by a 4 ½ hour bus ride then a 1 hour train ride to finally make it back to Rabat by 7 pm and if I had felt the way I did Saturday night the entire day I don’t think I would have made it… I felt sooo gross by the time we got back. I hadn’t showered in god knows how long and I literally did not change one article of clothing from Saturday morning until Sunday night (considering I couldn’t move enough to even remove my shoes Saturday night)
So moral of the story: the waterfalls rocked and I was so glad we went but the weekend was just very very long! But, I only spent a total of about 85 dollars! Uuughghghghg I’m going to bed…

2 comments:

gail/mimi said...

For every adventure you complete, Lulu, you're just that much stronger and smarter. PLUS, you've created another great memory for yourself. If Morocco were like Kansas, you wouldn't have had anything to tell us! AND, I get to let out my breath after I know you're ok.
Do they have this program for senior citizens?????????

Ándrea said...

I'm sorry to hear about the rough weekend. Like you said...at the end of the day, it was totally worth it so that's all that matters. I have GOT to see pictures of this waterfall soon. If it's worth being almost mugged and sick...it's got to be unbelievable! I hope you have a good week and can rest up.